Denim Dudes

Mens Runways: My Top Takeaways

Amy LevertonComment

I've been avidly trawling the mens shows the last few weeks and I wanted to share a few of my initial thoughts on the key trends. These are just rough, overarching ideas as I have clients who I work with on bespoke, in-depth information from me. If you are a potential client and are interested in a full analysis, please head to the contact page!

 

Takeaway 1: Mid-Century Summer

Topman Design / Saint Laurent / Neil Barrett / Valentino / Louis Vuitton

Topman Design / Saint Laurent / Neil Barrett / Valentino / Louis Vuitton

I've seen this trend approaching from a long way off and I'm so excited to see it finally hit saturation for SS16. An altogether darker palette emerges for summer and dark indigos are paired with the essential item of the season: the (often eastern inspired) souvineer jacket. Spread collars are everywhere, as is the snappy new smart cigarette pant shape. This look combines mid-century resort wear with a distinct Asian twist. Basically looking at Americana through the sophisticated eye of the Japanese collector. My favorite trend and the most significant of the season.

 

Takeaway 2: 80's Athleisure

No. 21 / YMC / Gosha Rubchinskiy / Topman Design / Ami Alexandre Mattiussi

No. 21 / YMC / Gosha Rubchinskiy / Topman Design / Ami Alexandre Mattiussi

This one is more emerging than established. It's kinda ugly to look at, right? That's what I love about it. Gosha Rubchinskyi drove this trend last season and it picks up pace for SS16. The trend taps a sentimentality with late 70's and early 80's leisure wear, I know my brother definitely rocked some of these looks growing up! It's an evolution of the active trend mixed with that look everybody loves to hate: norm-core. But designers are pushing the boundaries of ugly to make it fresh. Acid and stone washed denim sits effortlessly with primary sportswear brights. Genius!

 

Takeaway 3: The Eastern Influence

Zeng Fengfei / Dolce & Gabbana / Haider Ackermann / J W Anderson / Diesel Black Gold

Zeng Fengfei / Dolce & Gabbana / Haider Ackermann / J W Anderson / Diesel Black Gold

These looks sum up is the West's continued fascination with the East. The trend has been running for some time but for SS16 it gets a more luxurious update. As I've said, the satin bomber or souvineer jacket was absolutely everywhere and delicate embroideries, inspired by these jackets (as well as military Vietnamese bombers) popped up all over. The wrap around pant appeared on many runways as did the judo inspired jacket and kimono silhouettes in general. For me though, it was this renewed interest in satin weaves combined with luxe embroideries that stood out as freshest. A nice move on to the more humble textiles we've seen over the last few seasons.

 

Takeaway 4: The Urban Worker

Soulland / Agi & Sam / Givenchy / Margarete Howell / APC

Soulland / Agi & Sam / Givenchy / Margarete Howell / APC

And so workwear continues! I actually really love this trend and have seen it first hand on the streets of Tokyo where it is currently having a big moment (naturally) It's a fresh and summer-friendly way to update chore jackets, overalls and worker pants, giving classic pieces contemporary relevance. Think crisp and clean whites, tans and indigos, hardwear store Carhartt looks and modernized detailing. Tasty.

 

Takeaway 5: Military

No 21 / Ermanno Scervino / Maharishi / Christopher Raeburn / Kenzo

No 21 / Ermanno Scervino / Maharishi / Christopher Raeburn / Kenzo

As denim designers and enthusiasts, casualwear and military speaks our language so I wanted to call out this theme too. Military and fatigue inspired looks are continuing their importance, in fact Kenzo, Maharishi and Kolor had significant military presence on the runway. Overalls played a big part, as did modernised jacket liners as an alternative to that popular MA1 jacket from last season. I personally loved the tonal patched looks at Maharishi and have seen that look cropping up at a number of different places around the globe. So if you're currently not tapping military, get down that army and navy store asap!

Takeaway 6: Deep Gloss

Canali / Jermyn Street, St James / E Tauztz / Juun J / Valentino

Canali / Jermyn Street, St James / E Tauztz / Juun J / Valentino

Smartened denim looks continue to drive runway trends and this season gloss just got glossier! The Louis show was so shiny it replicated shot satin! Interesting move on's for this look this season include smartened utility looks at Canali and upsized proportion play at E. Tautz and Juun J.

 

Takeaway 7: Striped Sets

Tiger of Sweden / Topman Design / Agi & Sam / Umit Benan / 3.1 Philip Lim

Tiger of Sweden / Topman Design / Agi & Sam / Umit Benan / 3.1 Philip Lim

It's summer so of course the stripe is back. There were lots of stripes to note from the shows (see Tiger of Sweden, Agy and Sam and 3.1 Phillip Lim) including variegated stripes, railroads, mattress tickings and pinstripes but I was particularly draw to the widened indigo and white combos and the bold all over styling. Rivera on steroids! Retro looks tapped into the mid-century resort theme and cleaner worker styling feeds into Urban Worker.

 

Takeaway 8: Neo Boro

DSquared2 / Bottega Vaneta / James Long / Brioni / Valentino

DSquared2 / Bottega Vaneta / James Long / Brioni / Valentino

The trend that keeps on trending! Simply because it looks so good and it lends itself to denim like a duck to water. Valentino updated Classic boro patching and sashiko stitching with a fresh jacket shape whilst others played with trompe l'olle. My favorite looks, however, played with unexpected fabrics, light quilted techniques or a 70's aesthetic.  Key shows to check out would be Bottega Veneta and of course the king of patch, Junya, who actually presented quite a fresh direction this season.

So these are some of my first impressions, like I said, if you're interested to know more then hit me up!